Yalta is Ukraine's and Russia's most popular trap and should be enjoyed as such, for this fabulous little city hold much more appeal than its stony urban beaches and imported palms might first suggest. In the shadows of the concrete high-rises and glossy souvenir arcades lies a historic town of turn-of-the-century beach houses now overgrown with vines and flowers and swept by the romantic glow of the Yalta lighthouse. A national park completely surrounds the city and many smaller trails branch off from the outskirt and into the wilds of Crimea. Walking up and down the Nabereznaya comes naturally in Yalta, as does beachcombing, sunbathing, swimming and shopping for cheesy souvenirs. Yet there are some real attraction in Yalta besides the electronic mayhem on the boardwalk and the standing-room-only beaches.

Primorsky Park is a calm green spot by the sea with cypress woods, several monuments and some of the older sanatoria, making it a good place for a stroll. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral on Sadovaya has brand-new gold domes and displays original mosaics inside and out. The Chekhov House and Museum was the private "white dacha"of author and playwright Anton Chekhov who came often to Yalta to work and rest. In Yalta's southern suburb stands the gleamingly white Livadia Palace, built by Tsar Nikolai the second. The white renaissance mansion is completed in 1911 and is surrounded by a simple but vast garden overlooking the sea. A guided tour creates a wistful mood, showing original artefacts and photographs of Russia's last royal family. In Yalta there are many shrines. Temples,cathedrals, churches and chapels have great historical and cultural value. Old palaces and hidden memorials offer up nostalgia for this mystical coastline, felt even by first-time visitors.

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